Staying on the Horse
A lesson for life.
Recently, I was away staying on a guest ranch in the US with my husband.
We went there for the riding and other activities, I love horses. I rode for a few years as a child and then didn’t ride for 40 years. I came back to it about 10 years ago.
I have never owned my own horse, although this has been a lifetime goal; when I ride, I like a sensible horse, I’m looking for consistency and reliability.
The horses on the ranch are looked after by wranglers, most of the wranglers have been around horses their whole life; they are good riders and know the horses inside out.
One day we were out on the trail, the wrangler was training a young horse to lead the group. The horse was clearly excited and became more so, she didn’t want to go on the trail and was backing up, taking a few steps forward, then back again, then spinning right and left.
What followed was a great display of riding, staying on the horse. The wrangler sat solid, there was no fear, no anger, no frustration. We sat watching as he continued to encourage her forward on to the trail and she continued backing up and spinning; many riders would have been unseated by the pace and direction changes.
Clearly, the wrangler is an accomplished horseman with a great seat and balance and many hours in the saddle; he knew what he was doing. One of my fellow riders commented that if he had been holding a cup of tea, not a drop would have been spilt. It seemed to me that his strength was in more than physical riding ability.
He had unfaltering self belief, a quiet confidence, that he would stay on and would ride forward. What we saw that day was the product of years of daily practice of tiny steps which came together giving him the inner strength to keep going and trust himself. His mindset was as powerful, if not more so, than his physical ability to ride.
I drew parallels with dog training; it’s inevitable that some days training will go brilliantly well and we’ll be on cloud nine, other days, things will go less well and some days, we may wish we hadn’t bothered. These are the days when we need to keep our head in the game and trust ourselves to keep going. It is the tiny daily steps which come together to help us achieve our dog training goals and these same steps that help us grow the inner strength and resilience of the wrangler.
Having the support of a trainer can really help in this journey. A trainer can help you identify suitable goals, map out a training plan, point out successes when you can’t see them, and be your cheer leader.
If you have a dog training struggle, get in touch to arrange a free discovery call and find out how I can help.
Recall Tips
Let’s delve into some valuable tips for improving your dog’s recall. A reliable recall is essential for keeping your furry friend safe and ensuring a strong bond between you. Here’s what you need to know:
Understanding Recall:
Recall means that your dog should leave whatever they’re doing and return to you promptly.
Whether your dog is in front of you or at your side (heel position), they should stop and check in, remaining in position until you release them.
Think of recall as a pattern: “I call, you come back, and I reward you well.”
Building a Positive Relationship:
Recall is closely tied to the relationship you have with your dog. Positive interactions contribute to better recall.
Toy play is an excellent way to reinforce recall. Consider using toys like chaser tugs and bungee tugs from Tug-E-Nuff for play and training.
Recall Cues:
Choose a consistent recall cue, such as your dog’s name, “come,” or any other word you prefer.
Use the same cue consistently so your dog understands its meaning.
Whistles for Recall:
Whistles can be effective, especially in distracting environments or when your dog is far away.
Unlike the human voice, whistles are consistent and don’t carry emotional tones.
Rewarding Recall:
Reward your dog generously for coming back to you:
Food: High-value treats like sausage, cheese, or ham work well.
Affection: Petting and praising your dog.
Verbal Praise: Use an excited tone to let your dog know they’ve done the right thing.
Remember, consistency and positive reinforcement are key. Celebrate your dog’s successful recalls, and you’ll build a strong recall history. Happy training! 🐾🐶
Training vs Behaviour
What is the difference between dog training and behaviour struggles, and why is this important for dog owners?
Generally speaking, where struggles are present in all but young puppies, there will be elements of both training and behaviour needs as the two elements are very closely linked. If we think about something simple such as recall, we can see how training and behaviour struggles can co-exist.
In this blog, I show the importance of delving a little deeper into struggle to identify whether it can be addressed with a training programme or whether some form of behaviour modification is needed. This distinction is important for when you are looking for a professional to help you. A trainer who has knowledge of both behaviour modification and training techniques will help you achieve the best outcome.
Recall
When I got Flash, my youngest puppy, I started training him to come back to me. He learned his recall easily and would come away from difficult distractions at distance. He would turn on a sixpence and fly back to me.
So far so good, training had worked well.
When he was 6 months old, everything started to change. Gradually, I noticed, he was less keen to come back. I had to repeat his recall cue and soon he was ignoring that too. He didn’t want to hang out with me anymore, he wanted to run off and explore.
What had gone wrong? In a word, Adolescence.
Hormonal and neurological changes that take place during adolescence can cause behaviour changes, this can manifest as running off after scents, increased arousal levels, and testing boundaries, among others. Flash was no longer responding to cues which he previously understood and reacted to.
Understanding the effect of adolescence on a young dog’s behaviour is essential to ensure that the correct interventions can be put in place.
Loose Lead Walking
Let’s suppose you have trained your dog to walk nicely on the lead. You have practiced in different environments and they really understand what you want, you have trained the skill.
You might then notice the behaviour becomes less reliable and they are pulling on the lead. The next thing you know, you’re being dragged down the street or from side to side as they lunge off to investigate different smells.
How can this change occur?
Dogs are very good at understanding routines and patterns. If every time they go out on the lead they end up at the park, where they race around with their doggy pals for an hour, and become very excited, they will start to anticipate that every time they leave the house they are on their way to the park. This will cause their arousal (excitement) to increase. As their arousal increases, their ability to perform loose lead walking (which requires a high level of self control) declines.
In this case, we need to address the arousal in order to bring about an improvement in the loose lead walking, rather than working solely on loose lead walking itself.
Conclusion
From these examples, you can see why it is very difficult, if not impossible, to give training or behaviour advice without carrying out an assessment. The Behaviour Assessment Questionnaire helps me to decide whether a struggle is predominantly training or whether there is a behaviour element which also needs to be addressed.
Sometimes, it’s really helpful to arrange a one off Assessment Session where we can meet and discuss your struggles in person.
I can advise on whether a Training Bundle or a Behaviour Consultation is most appropriate.
Two dogs may present with the same difficulty, ‘recall struggles’ or ‘pulling on the lead’, but because of the context, the input they require will be different.
It is often the case, that a combination of behaviour and training techniques are needed to bring about the best results for a dog and their family.
I am always happy to discuss your issues on the telephone. Please message me to arrange a convenient time.
If you want to know more about what I do, please follow me on social media.
Basic Training that could save your dog’s life
In this blog, I discuss some fundamental aspects of training that all dogs should know. If you train these essentials, they will go a long way to keeping you and your dog out of trouble and could even save your dog’s life. Successful training relies on consistency and commitment as these behaviours will be grown over time.
Because of the ever changing world we live in, sometimes issues will occur which will effect your dog’s performance in one or more areas and you may need to revisit previous training.
Recall
Recall, the art of getting your dog to come back to you, it sounds simple, yet it’s a skill that frequently challenges dog owners. Picture this: your dog eagerly trots over when dinner is served. However, what happens when they become engrossed in a dropped packet of biscuits or distracted by the remnants of a picnic you come across on a walk? Will they leave the distraction and come back? The struggle with recall is undeniably real, influenced by the distance between you and your dog and the level of distractions in the environment. The aim with recall is that a dog will return to their owner no matter what.
Loose Lead Walking
Loose lead walking is a common challenge, and one I am very familiar with. If you're a dog owner, it’s likely that you have experienced the frustration of trying to rein in a dog determined to drag you down the street. Are your leisurely walks turning into a tug-of-war struggle, leaving you with sore arms and a concern that your dog might take off? For some dog owners, the situation can get so bad, they dread walking the dog, either they stop walking or they resort to taking their dog in the car to a park or other place where they let them run off their energy. The down side to this is it’s likely the dog is completely out of control, the owner does not feature in the walk at all, the dog is free to run up to other dogs and people and cause a nuisance.
There is good news though, mastering loose lead walking is not only possible but incredibly rewarding for both you and your four-legged friend. It takes time and patience to perfect loose lead walking, and some dogs find it easier than others. Success often comes when you shift your focus from getting from A to B to actively training loose lead walking. With consistent effort, you'll find your dog learns to walk nicely on the lead and walks become more enjoyable and stress-free.
Sit stay
Having a dog with sufficient self-control to sit and stay on command can be a game-changer. It frees you up to attend to tasks with the confidence that your dog will stay put, keeping both of you out of harm's way. This could be something as simple as picking up after your dog during a walk, cleaning up a broken glass or carrying a hot pan from the stove to the table.
Not jumping up
This includes teaching your dog not to jump on you, family members, visitors at home, or strangers encountered during walks. From a legal standpoint, it's important to understand that a dog can be deemed 'dangerously out of control' if it causes fear or apprehension, regardless of its friendliness. The law is clear that any instance where a person feels the dog may cause injury falls under this category. Preventing jumping up is therefore essential.
Play
Play is a crucial aspect of a dog's life, contributing to their physical and mental well-being. Play is as a form of exercise, helping dogs maintain a healthy weight and promoting cardiovascular health. Activities like fetch, tug-of-war, and running are excellent for physical fitness.
Play provides an opportunity for socialization and bonding with both other dogs and humans. Play is essential for strengthening the bond between dogs and their owners. Spending quality playtime together fosters trust and deepens the human-dog relationship and will impact all other areas of life with your dog such as strengthening recall and loose lead walking independent of any specific training.
Leave
Teaching your dog to "leave" is one of my favourite things to train. It’s a real gamechanger, and can help recall and loose lead walking, as well as preventing damage to your home and playing a crucial role in your dog's safety.
Training your dog to leave items prevents potential damage to your belongings and maintains a safe environment within your home.
Many dogs have a liking for stealing items like socks, and shoes and will pick up stones, or balls, which they will then eat. By teaching the "leave" command, you help prevent your dog from picking up and ingesting harmful items.
Excessive surgery to remove ingested items poses risks to a dog's health. There is a limit to the number of surgeries that can be performed, once your dog understands "leave", the likelihood of them needing surgery due to ingesting inappropriate objects is significantly reduced.
Dogs may scavenge during walks, exposing them to potential dangers like litter, poison or sharp objects hidden in food. Teaching your dog to leave items on command enhances their safety outdoors.
You will sometimes see reports of harmful substances which have been intentionally left for dogs to ingest. Teaching your dog to leave potentially dangerous items helps protect them from such dangers during walks.
There are other benefits to training your dog, the act of training and learning together is fun and contributes to building a stronger bond between you and your dog. Consistent positive reinforcement reinforces trust and communication.
Handling
Effective handling is all about ensuring your dog feels at ease during examinations and essential care routines, such as grooming and nail trimming, administering medication and ear and eye drops should they be needed, and carrying out veterinary procedures. If your dog is comfortable with handling, especially when it is done by someone else, for example, the vet this can help ensure they are amenable to veterinary assistance in an emergency which could avoid delays and save their life.
Settle (Sleep and Rest)
Dogs require 12-14 hours of rest and sleep each day for optimal health. Research indicates that well-rested dogs are not only more relaxed and happier but also demonstrate improved learning abilities. Conversely, insufficient sleep may lead to irritability, poor memory and increased reactions to stressful situations.
A dog that can’t settle may exhibit unwanted behaviours such as pacing, furniture chewing, counter surfing, or excessive barking. Puppies and dogs don't naturally possess the skill to settle and sleep; it's a behaviour that needs to be taught.
Teaching a dog to settle is straightforward. Simple measures, such as creating a quiet area, away from the hustle and bustle of family life, where your dog can rest and be undisturbed is a good start. It’s important that family members and especially children, understand that the dog should not be disturbed when on their bed. Some dogs will enjoy a chew or a bone when they are resting and this will reinforce their choice to choose to spend time resting.
If you have any questions or comments, please get in touch, I love to hear what you think. If you are interested in knowing more about any aspect of dog training, drop me a message here or find me on Facebook or Instagram.
Adolescence in Dogs
Introduction
Adolescence is a developmental stage between puppyhood and adulthood. There are no hard and fast rules about when adolescence happens, timing varies between breeds and individuals; it can begin from around 5 to 7 months and last until 2 to 3 years of age. There is no doubt that adolescence can be a testing time, this blog discusses the changes that you might see during this period and how you can best manage the challenges that crop up.
As your puppy grows up, and everything begins to settle, early unwanted behaviours such as puppy biting and toileting accidents in the house reduce, your puppy is settling better and you are getting a regular night’s sleep.
Your puppy will know their name, will be able to come back when called, and walk on a lead. You can be forgiven for thinking you have got everything under control.
Not so fast, there’s a new challenge on the horizon - adolescence.
Adolescence
Adolescence is a period of transition from puppyhood into adulthood, much like we see during the teenage years in people. An entirely different set of struggles can surface in our dogs at this time, the surge in hormones which occurs during adolescence can cause changes in our young dog’s body, brain and behaviour.
An adolescent dog may become more independent and rebellious, and may start testing rules and boundaries. You may notice they start to challenge you by ignoring commands that they previously responded to perfectly.
This is something I have seen with my own dog, Flash, who is now 8 months old.
In the house, he tries to rush through doors without waiting for his release word, he jumps up on the kitchen counter and likes to pick up shoes and run away with them. Outside, his recall, which was rock solid, has all but disappeared. Not only that, when we’re out, at any opportunity, he bolts for the hills. He isn’t being naughty, he is going through adolescence and as a working lines springer spaniel, his desire to hunt and explore has kicked in.
Behaviours you might notice in your dog
Chewing furniture, carpets, skirting boards, anything they can get hold of.
They might jump up on the furniture, even if they know this is out of bounds.
Their behaviour around other dogs and situations may change, even if they have been great up until now, they may become fearful or boisterous, or both.
They may become more aloof and independent, preferring to spend time alone rather than with their owner.
In addition to ignoring the owner, adolescent dogs can sometimes show increased responsiveness and attachment (relationship) to others. If you have any experience of human teenagers, you may recognise some of the behaviours described here! They may prefer going off visiting other people and dogs when on walks.
While these challenges can be frustrating and demoralizing, it’s important to remember this is a phase and part of normal maturation.
What can you do about it?
The best advice is to continue to provide clear expectations and boundaries and focus on your relationship with your dog.
For example, if your young dog has become very boisterous, and has, for example, started jumping up, you will need to be very clear that this is not acceptable; you will need to be consistent and address the behaviour every time it occurs. If your dog gets away with any unwanted behaviour, they will do more of it.
If recall has become a struggle, use a long line to keep your dog safe whilst you work on rebuilding your dog’s desire to come back.
Think about your house rules and boundaries, all household members will need to agree on what is OK for your dog to do so you are all saying the same thing. Adolescent dogs need firm, consistent guidance so they are clear on what behaviours are acceptable otherwise they will be confused. In addition, if they get away with ‘bad behaviour’ they will keep doing it!
Adolescent dogs need more exercise than younger dogs. Find out what your dog enjoys and incorporate it into your walks. It’s a good idea to provide both mental stimulation and physical exercise. This will strengthen your relationship and increase your dog’s desire to stay with you, making them less likely to want to leave you and seek out other dogs on walks.
Regular exercise will help your adolescent dog burn off excess energy, this combined with developing self control, will help them stay calm indoors.
Continue to offer opportunities for your dog to socialise just as you did when they were a puppy; expose them to a variety of sights and sounds and environments, and if there is something they seem concerned about, look for opportunities to gradually familiarise them with it.
Give them opportunities to interact safely with other dogs and people. If they seem to be getting too boisterous or worried, take them out of the situation. Encourage them to play with you so their preference will be to choose you over other dogs or people when you’re out and about.
Summary
Adolescence is a phase of great change for your young dog and for you. During this period, it pays to be patient and understanding and remember that your adolescent dog is still learning and growing, and making mistakes is part of the process. With patience, love, and consistency, your adolescent dog will pass through this period and will emerge a well-adjusted family member.
If you are concerned with your adolescent dog’s behaviour or you are unsure how to handle it, reach out for some help and support contact us.
Why I love Gundog Training
I love teaching gun dog skills to puppies and adult dogs because the skills taught in gundog training are all useful for a well behaved pet dog. These skills include developing behaviours, such as sit, stay, walking nicely on a lead, coming back when called and retrieve objects. This training facilitates the development of concepts such as self control and turn taking which are important for all dogs.
Pet gundogs
Working dogs have become very popular pets and it’s quite possible for a working dog to live a happy and fulfilled life as a pet. It’s important to remember that these dogs are likely to have a strong work ethic and as such they will need some sort of job to do.
Dogs from working lines have been selectively bred with attributes suited to working in their specific area. They are a formidable combination of brains, energy, speed and independence. In the case of gun dogs, these traits enable them to fulfil various roles on the shooting field, such as, beating (finding and flushing game), picking up (retrieving shot birds) or as a peg dog (waiting on the peg and being sent for short retrieves). This work uses the dog’s natural abilities and fulfils their need for physical exercise and mental challenge.
It’s easy to see that, if left untapped these natural characteristics can cause problems in a pet home. This is why I am an advocate of gun dog training even if you have no intention of ever working your dog. The training itself can be really fulfilling for both handler and dog as they learn new skills together. For example, teaching a dog to retrieve can include elements of self control (not going for the retrieve until sent), hunting (using scent to find a hidden object), using directional commands to guide the dog into the area to find the retrieve. As well as being a physical workout, the dog is learning to listen to the handler, develop self control, and use its nose. Working closely together creates a great bond between dog and handler based on trust and respect.
The benefits of brain work in combination with physical activity will lead to a happy and contented dog that will make a fantastic pet.
If you are interested in knowing more about gun dog training and how this could help your dog, please get in touch.
Training Flash the first 3 weeks
The first thing I taught Flash was to find food and take it from my hand. This was a new experience and he got the idea very quickly. This is a basic requirement for any training which includes luring and for rewarding by hand. Once Flash understood about the food, I was able to tech him to follow food in my hand.
For such a young puppy, following food was done calmly, I didn’t want to over excite him and I also wanted to avoid him losing his footing and slipping. Soon, I was able to lure him around my legs into the Middle Position. This kind of game teaches him that it’s fun to stay close to me and later on will help with loose lead walking and recall.
We played some very simple games searching for food in packaging such as egg boxes and packets. I love this kind of game for building confidence and drive. It is easy to vary the set up and keep it interesting.
We made meal times more fun by filling a puppy Kong with his kibble. Flash quickly got the idea that he could release the kibble from the Kong by flicking it with his paw. We mixed it up a bit by boiling and mashing some vegetables and putting it in a Kong. He found this more challenging because he had to work harder to get the food out. We will continue to practice this as it will build his ability to stick to a task.
Young puppies like to stay close and I used this to have him follow me around the garden, this is the very beginning of walking on a loose lead and recall. He was rewarded for staying close with verbal praise, cuddles and puppy treats.
Teaching sit by holding a piece of food above his head and slowly lowering it until he is sitting. He does not get the food if he is jumping up. Once the behaviour is reliable, I will add the cue.
We did some training with the Place board, teaching Flash that the board is a good place to be by feeding him on the board. He was rewarded for staying on the board. Place board training is really useful for teaching basic gun dog skills.
New Puppy - The First Three Weeks
Getting a new puppy is a huge step, we have two dogs already and moving to three feels like a big change.
I gave up work at the end of February to start my dog training business. I was already musing about getting a puppy thinking it would be great for the business to record the puppy’s training and working through puppy struggles and would help me be more in tune with my puppy clients.
It became more of a reality when I found out that the breeder who provided one of our older dogs happened to have a litter due.
It was lovely to watch the pups grow in the updates that the breeder sent. We didn’t meet our pup, until the day we collected him as we already knew the breeder, but of you are dealing with a breeder for the first time it is recommended you visit at least once before deciding on having a pup.
We met his Mum and siblings, and his Dad visited, so we have lovely photos of the family group. It is recommended that you always see your pup with Mum and litter mates but this was the first time I was lucky enough to meet Dad too.
After some paperwork, we officially welcomed little Flash to our family.
On the journey home, Flash was in a crate on the back seat. He was very settled, we travelled the three and a half hours home in one go and when we got home he went straight out into the garden and did a wee!
That night, he settled and slept well, he was in a crate by my bed and when he woke, I took him outside and he did a wee and settled straight back to sleep.
Over the next two weeks, he woke up twice at night to wee, night time trips to the garden are accompanied by at least one of my other dogs but we keep it low key and it hasn’t developed into night time antics.
There have been many things that I wanted to get right with Flash, one of the most important was having a puppy that could settle. I think he has already read the instruction manual!
When popping a puppy into a crate or pen, it’s important to consider whether all their needs have been met, could they be hungry, thirsty, need the toilet? If these needs haven’t been met, we are not setting them up for success and it is unlikely they will settle.
Sometimes it can be difficult to be sure whether their needs have been met; there are a couple of pointers which have helped me with Flash. The first has been, that if he is whining, to observe him for a few moments, whining seems to be part of his settling process and does not mean he needs anything, if he looks calm and comfortable, I give him time to fall asleep. This has helped me to not bring him out of the crate unnecessarily. If the whining is accompanied by agitation and restlessness, then he may need something, a trip to the toilet or a drink, for example, in which case, I would bring him out of the crate.
I have tried hard to get this right because a puppy will soon pair whining with getting let out of the crate which can lead to more whining. I also try to initiate releasing him from the crate, i.e. not waiting for him to whine or ask to come out.
Flash likes his toys and will play happily in his pen or crate. He remains settled with all the comings and goings of deliveries and visitors, he is fine with the vacuum cleaner, and even if he does get disturbed usually manages to settle himself. This is a really useful skill and helps puppies realise that they do not need to be involved in every activity, some things that happen are none of their business! If puppy understands this and is content to spend time sleeping or awake playing in a crate or pen, this is an important step in preventing struggles related to being left alone.
We are a multi dog household and we already have gates and crates so it is easy to create a safe space for each individual dog. Puppies can be annoying to older dogs, play fighting and biting ears, and they have to learn how to interact appropriately, so it is important that access is supervised. It is not fair on an older dog to expect them to put up with him. If this behaviour is allowed to continue unchecked, one of the older dogs could get cross and make a bad decision leading to harm.
On occasion, Flash has been prone to biting and nipping, more so than any previous puppy I have had, there may be several factors contributing to this, possibly hunger, teething, and over-stimulation. Activities which cause him to become excited seem to trigger biting, I have made a point of keeping these interactions very short, maybe just a couple of minutes and then settling him again.
He has a variety of chew toys, such as a rope toy and some teething toys, occasionally he has also had a small carrot from the fridge to chew, the cold carrot helps soothe the gums, and a Puppy Kong stuffed with boiled mashed vegetables. I have selected puppy toys which are appropriate for his size, and he is supervised when playing.
Toilet training is going well, he gets the opportunity to toilet at least every hour and more frequently if he is showing signs he may need to go. We don’t wake him up to toilet. We encourage him to be happy toileting on different surfaces which is really useful if you are away from home. We have a verbal cue to toilet which is useful if you need to go on a journey and you want your dog to toilet before they get in the car or attend a training group.
Preventing Separation Struggles
It’s a good idea to train your pup to get used to spending time alone as soon as you can. Using a crate or puppy pen to help your pup settle away from you and will help grow independence. Whilst pup is safely in the crate or pen you can go about your normal activities. Pup will get used to you coming and going and will be quite comfortable when you are not present. It is important that pup learns to be content when they are awake in the crate or pen. You can help with this by giving them a chew or filled Kong to keep them occupied. Having some background noise like a radio or TV and covering the crate can also be helpful.
Once pup is used to seeing you come and go in the house and is comfortable on their own, you leaving the home to go out will be a natural extension and should not cause worry.
April
Bugzy’s Dogs is open for business. We have been busy setting up and promoting the brand so that we can get out there and help dogs and their owners. We have lots planned over the next few months, watch this space. If you have any questions or comments, please get in touch.
As well as getting the business up and running, we have been fortunate to participate in a water training workshop, a gundog training workshop, a spaniel training day with mock working test and a scurry.
Bruce came 2nd in the mock working test, photo by JM Photography and Design
We have had a fantastic time training and hope you enjoy these stunning photos. Lex has incredible drive, and he loves the water. Photos of Lex water training by CJH Photography and Curtis J Wood Photography
Bruce hunting, photo by Black Grouse Media
Over the Bales, photo by Black Grouse Media
I love getting out and training with the dogs. It’s really good for them to work around other dogs and handlers and learn to wait their turn. It’s also a great opportunity to spend time having fun with like minded people. If you would like to hear more about the training we offer please see our services page.
Crate Training
Crates can be really useful in the first few months of having a new puppy.
A crate is a safe place, like a den, and should be comfortable and welcoming, a place where your puppy will choose to hang out. Covering the crate can be useful in helping puppy to settle. Having the radio or television on in the background can also help puppy to settle.
Using a crate helps ensure the pup gets enough rest and sleep (they need about 18-20 hours a day) and can help with toilet training.
A crate can help pup settle on their own and learn to be independent.
Having a dog that is able to settle in a crate is also very useful if they need to spend time at the vet’s. Crates are often used as a safe space for travel. A dog will settle much more easily and cope with a potentially stressful situation, if they are already happy in a crate.
The crate is never used as a punishment.
It’s important to introduce your pup to the crate in the correct way. Encouraging pup to enter the crate of their own accord by feeding some of their daily food allowance or some treats in the crate will help them understand that it is a good place to be. You can get pup used to having the door closed by closing it briefly and rewarding pup well with the door closed and then opening it. Rewarding when the door is closed helps pup associate the closed door with good things and helps them feel comfortable.
My young dog, Lex, had surgery at 13 months old and due to complications which occurred after surgery, had a period of crate rest which lasted for 3 months. Initially, he really did not like the crate at all and we used high value food (mainly chicken) that he really liked to get him used to the idea. It was well worth the effort because he was able to settle happily in the carte during his recovery. We still have the crate and he chooses to go in there sometimes.
Toilet training
Puppies don’t know about toilet training - we have to show them what we want.
The good news is that if you go all in on toilet training you can, in most cases, achieve really good results in 3 weeks.
Remember that very young puppies may not have the neurological ability to control their bladder and bowel until about 12 weeks.
I’m not suggesting that we leave toilet training until then, it just might help understand why some puppies take a little longer to get the idea. It’s also worth knowing, that in some cases, smaller dogs can take longer to be fully house trained.
What do I have to do to successfully toilet train my puppy?
Probably the single most important factor in achieving a pup who is toilet trained in a short space of time, is for the owner to be really vigilant.
The goal is that our puppy will alert us to when they need to go to the toilet, but to start with, we need to be very observant and offer the pup the opportunity to toilet frequently.
A toilet break is needed after any change of activity, for example, after eating or drinking, after play, and when the pup wakes up from sleeping.
Aside from these times, you might notice little signs that they need to toilet, such as sniffing, spinning and agitation.
It is my preference to take my puppy outside in the garden to toilet; I choose a specific area where they can sniff and toilet comfortably. This is a calm interaction, we don’t want to make it exciting because this will distract the pup from what they need to do.
Likewise, if your pup is running around and playing, it might be good idea to put them on a lead, so they are less distracted. I add in a verbal cue, I say ‘quickly, quickly’, adding a cue can be really useful later on.
Once they toilet, I reward calmly with a small treat and verbal praise. I wait a few moments before taking pup back inside. Some clever pups will realise that if you take them straight back inside after toileting, their exploration ends and this may lead them to delay toileting!
It’s important to consider where your pup is in the house, as this relates to their activity and the amount of supervision they need and will ultimately effect their success.
If your pup spends time in a crate, they will not need much supervision - they are unlikely to toilet in the crate. You will just need to take pup out after eating or drinking and when they wake from sleeping.
If they are in a puppy pen, they will need more supervision as they have more room to move around and therefore more choice in what they do - they are more likely to toilet in a pen than in a crate.
If the pup has free range in a room or larger part of the house, they will need close supervision as they have more choice about where to go and what to do.
There will be accidents, the best thing to do is to soak up the puddle with disposable towels and clean the area with an enzyme cleaner to remove all traces, otherwise the pup is likely to return to the area and soil there again.
There is no benefit to getting upset about accidents, the pup did not do it to upset you, they are not being naughty, they are learning, and with your guidance they will soon be fully toilet trained.
Are you a new, or first time, puppy owner?
Ginny was my first puppy. She came to us at 11 weeks old. I had wanted a boxer for years, she was literally a dream come true!
I had read up online about what to expect and what equipment I needed. I bought food, a crate and some toys, but I was clueless! I certainly wasn’t prepared for the feelings I had when she arrived. which weren’t dissimilar to how I felt when bringing home a new baby! I didn’t know it at the time but ‘Puppy Blues’ is a thing.
During the initial weeks, it can feel as if your life has been turned upside down, there’s extra mess to deal with, puppy crying and possibly difficulty settling. Then there’s anxiety about whether you’re doing things right, depleted physical and emotional energy which can lead to overwhelm. Add sleep deprivation into the mix and it’s not surprising that some new puppy owners regret getting the puppy.
Hiring a trainer for support during this period, can be a real help, and our Rookie package (2 sessions, 2 weeks apart and What’s App support) is ideal for new puppy owners. The first session can take place before your puppy comes home, if you wish, and can help with things like setting up the environment and choosing equipment. If you have no experience of having a puppy this will give you an opportunity to ask questions so that you are better prepared for your new arrival. If you prefer, the first session can be soon after your puppy comes home. The second session is usually 2 weeks after the first. Hopefully by now, you will be feeling more confident; however, your puppy will be growing and changing, with new challenges to consider.
You will have access to What’s App Support for the month, 10 am to 5 pm, Monday to Friday and you can use this to ask questions, send photos and videos and share progress.
The adventures of an urban gundog
This morning Bruce and I went to Lloyd Park in South Croydon, with our friend, Sue, and her cocker spaniel, Rosie. Lloyd Park is a popular spot with dog walkers, it’s easy to find and has its own tram stop on Route 3, New Addington to Wimbledon.
There is a free car park, you can stay for 3 hours but you must obtain a ticket from the machine and display it on your windscreen or you could get a penalty notice. The park can also be accessed from Deepdene and Mapledale Avenue in the north. The park is 114 acres, a mixture of grassland, trees and woodland. There is plenty of space for you to walk and play with your dog.
Prior to our visit, there had been a lot of rain and some areas were quite muddy. Towards the northern edge of the park there is a line of natural springs which emerge during wet weather, this area is known as the Squashes because it can get really wet. A pair of waterproof boots is useful.
There is a café which sells a wide variety of sweet and savoury snacks and meals. There is also an ice cream parlour which also sells ice cream including a dog friendly variety. There are plenty of tables both inside and outside.
We visited during the school holidays on a lovely bright morning and sat outside. It was busy but not too crowded. Fresh water is provided for dogs. There are toilet and baby change facilities available during café opening times.
We recommend Lloyd Park for a lovely walk with your dog.
Our Hydrotherapy Experience
As a young dog Lex had a painful orthopedic condition which affected his left shoulder (humeral head). He had surgery in 2020 and recovered well.
One day, last summer, after a training session when he had been retrieving over a fence, he was very dejected and off his food. The vet diagnosed him with a painful shoulder and said as he was such a young dog, we shouldn’t restrict his exercise, instead we should let him do his usual activity and treat him with pain medications if and when required.
He also thought it would be beneficial to do some hydrotherapy to enable him to exercise without impact on the joint and help maintain muscle mass and build fitness. We had a referral went along to Gem and Evie’s at Hamsey Green. Gem & Evie's Hydrotherapy for dogs in Surrey (gemandevies.co.uk)
Lex is a high drive working springer and he finds everything exciting and the same was true for hydrotherapy!
The way it works is the dog is showered before swimming to warm up the muscles and remove any dirt from the coat to prevent contaminating the pool. The first few visits, Lex wouldn’t stand on the shower tray so he was showered on mat on the floor. Siew lian was very patient and did not rush him. After showering, he had the buoyancy aid put on and he was ready to go.
He loved the water and he loved swimming. During the course of the sessions, he became much more comfortable with the environment, once he was ready, showered and ready, he was up the slope and into the pool. He also adjusted to taking short breaks between swimming and began to enjoy staying still while Siew lian gave him a massage
Hydrotherapy was very beneficial for Lex both in terms of his physical and mental wellbeing.
Dog Law Meeting
I went to a meeting hosted by Croydon Companion Dog Club with Tara Boswell, the Croydon Dog Warden.
Find out more: Croydon Council Dog Warden Service
It was a really interesting and informative meeting and I learnt a lot about how the law applies to dog ownership.
Things I learned:
A dog must wear a collar and tag stating the name and address of the owner when in a public place, an owner can be fined up to £5000 (yes, that is correct!) if the dog is found in a public place without a collar and tag with these details.
Any dog over the age of 8 weeks should have a microchip. There’s a fine of £500 if a dog doesn’t have a microchip or if the dog is registered on a database that is not on the government’s list.
Remember to keep the details on the chip up to date so that if your dog does go missing there is a better chance of being reunited.
Sometimes the chip can move, it’s a good idea to check the chip every now and then to make sure it’s still in place. A vet, dog warden or dog rescue centre can do this for you.
Read more: Get your dog microchipped
Out and About with your dog?
Dogs must be on a lead on all roads.
The Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 applies to all dogs, no matter the breed, and covers a dog’s behaviour in both public spaces and private property including at home and in the garden.
It is a criminal offence to allow a dog to be dangerously out of control, the dog does not need to bite or injure someone to be deemed out of control. It may be that someone is worried it might injure them.
Read more: Dangerous dogs
It’s good to know what is expected of us as dog owners. Training our dogs to stay close when out and about and to come back when called are great ways to reduce the likelihood of an untoward event.
If you need help with training, please fill in our contact form for a free 15 minute consultation.